PC Console to PC Questions

Can you let me know what parts you picked, just for kicks not too judge, I promise.
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Hard to judge when I haven't bought anything yet lol. Besides I needed something for a starting reference. I'll still have to go back and forth with different options, be it the graphics card, to maybe a different Mobo. The main thing was having a starting list to modify.

Wish I could simply post the link to the product, hell, Id settle for being able to post a picture, but this will have to do.

G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C16D-32GTZR

Intel Core i7-9700K Coffee Lake 8-Core 3.6 GHz (4.9 GHz Turbo) LGA 1151 (300 Series) 95W BX80684I79700K Desktop Processor Intel UHD Graphics 630

MSI GeForce RTX 2060 DirectX 12 RTX 2060 GAMING Z 6G 6GB 192-Bit GDDR6 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card

Seasonic FOCUS Plus Series SSR-850PX 850W 80+ Platinum ATX12V & EPS12V Full Modular 120mm FDB Fan 10 Years Warranty Compact 140 mm Size Power Supply

SAMSUNG 970 EVO M.2 2280 1TB PCIe Gen3. X4, NVMe 1.3 64L V-NAND 3-bit MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-V7E1T0BW

ASRock Z390 Extreme4 LGA 1151 (300 Series) Intel Z390 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard

 
Hard to judge when I haven't bought anything yet lol. Besides I needed something for a starting reference. I'll still have to go back and forth with different options, be it the graphics card, to maybe a different Mobo. The main thing was having a starting list to modify.
Wish I could simply post the link to the product, hell, Id settle for being able to post a picture, but this will have to do.

G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3200 (PC4 25600) Desktop Memory Model F4-3200C16D-32GTZR

Intel Core i7-9700K Coffee Lake 8-Core 3.6 GHz (4.9 GHz Turbo) LGA 1151 (300 Series) 95W BX80684I79700K Desktop Processor Intel UHD Graphics 630

MSI GeForce RTX 2060 DirectX 12 RTX 2060 GAMING Z 6G 6GB 192-Bit GDDR6 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card

Seasonic FOCUS Plus Series SSR-850PX 850W 80+ Platinum ATX12V & EPS12V Full Modular 120mm FDB Fan 10 Years Warranty Compact 140 mm Size Power Supply

SAMSUNG 970 EVO M.2 2280 1TB PCIe Gen3. X4, NVMe 1.3 64L V-NAND 3-bit MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) MZ-V7E1T0BW

ASRock Z390 Extreme4 LGA 1151 (300 Series) Intel Z390 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 ATX Intel Motherboard
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Thank you, I remember Newegg having public viewable wishlists if that is where you are at. You will have a permalink and that should be the link to your public wishlist, I wasn't thinking about the time to copy and paste everything.

Review of you video card

Its difficult to add a video card to a build with the ridiculous pricing of the 2080 and 2080ti and keep the price down. So you sacrifice the video card but buy a better CPU or vice versa it is not an easy decision to make.So if he buys the 2080 he adds over $300.00 to the system and I think the 1080x1920 gaming is easier to get good frame rates whereas 4K would need the extra power of a 2080 or 2080ti or whatever. I am happy I bought my GTX 1080 when I did, its still a good card but it was about $800.00 or something back in 2016.

 
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Yeah, the price difference between 2060 to 2080 is nearly doubled.

Ultimately, having crisp graphics combined with stable good FPS rates is the goal. I really don't need 4k capabilities, so there is no point for me to drop $500 or more at this point. Especially when just basic/mid range is more than enough to be a significant improvement over a console.

While watching the one youtuber I follow, it pretty much sums up what I'm more anxious to have/see over console. Aside from an updated alpha with POI's and all that lol, it's the overall smoothness, FPS stability, as well as the ability to actually render objects in the distance. While I still enjoy my game on PS4, nothing beats exploring an open world when you can actually see the damn world in detail lol.

But I digress, the items I dropped into my wishlist isn't exactly set in stone either. It was a good starting point visually that looked like a decent option. Some how nearly every part is right around $150, give or take $10 bucks or so aside from the Intel I7 version and the 2060 which is right at $350ish range.

I am on newegg, but don't see an option or ability to obtain a link. I'm doing everything via my phone lol. I don't even have an option to post a picture here if I wanted.

 
I have always done the exact same thing, I add items to a cart and then take some out and try something else and do that for a long time trying to get an idea of cost, so not making hasty decisions is a good thing to do and you can always look for reviews and benchmarks online when you think you have the right system.

Now that I think about, it you have have a newegg account to manage wish-lists nad then you need to create a public wish list. I am curious to see which case you pick out, I am a massive case guy because I use air cooling and will never trust water cooling no matter if it is already configured or not. The idea of having water flowing inside of your case is just not my thing.

I have a case I really like and it is a Cadillac of cases: https://www.newegg.com/black-thermaltake-core-w200-xl-atx-dual-system-super-tower/p/N82E16811133308 yeah it a bit ridiculous but I really like it for the air cooling possibilities and the way you can put the power supply and hard drives completely on the other side of the case so no heat from these things will affect your motherboard or video card and the top fans will draw the small amount of heat from them up and never across your components. 4 140mm bottom fans, 4 140mm top fans, 3 120mm front fans and a 120mm back fan for the motherboard side of the case all controlled by 2, 6 channel 5.25" bay fan controllers, being the only thing other than an optical drive on the motherboard side of the case. You can also put 6, yeah 6 200mm fans on the front or back side of the case, either sacrifice the glass panel and have them flow directly onto you motherboard or use them on the back side to cool the bottom of your motherboard and of course requiring another six channel fan controller to adjust the RPMs to allow only enough airflow as needed, so you do not have a case that sounds like a jet taking off and I have had one that did sound just like that and I needed the fan controller to cut the 5000rpm Delta 120mm fans down to whatever I needed at the time.

This is not a recommendation, you can find a good case for about $100.00. This seems like a good starter case https://www.newegg.com/black-phanteks-enthoo-pro-atx-full-tower/p/N82E16811854003 just to give you an idea of the cost. I would suggest at least a mid-tower case to give you more room to put in your components for your first build.

You know after all of this I would love to see pictures of your new PC someday, I just took a photo of my PC and I realized I need to take a compressed air can to it and clean the window its a bit embarrassing that this needs to be done after all this talk about building a PC but at least the photo made me realize it. Its funny how the Zalman CPU cooler looks like fan is not spinning in the photo and I checked Core Temp and its not too bad even with the dust.

https://i.imgur.com/xAnCgSk.jpg

I built this PC in 2008 and swapped the motherboard in 2012. This was my backup PC and I had a much nicer system I spent my time on but it died in 2018 so I am stuck with this one until I build another.

https://i.imgur.com/81R5eMm.jpg I miss this PC. I sold the CPU on eBay which was a i7 3960x a $1000.00 in 2012. You can see I like full tower PC cases and I hate to say it but your first build should be a case with a lot of room even with the expense it will be nice for you to have enough room to make it easier to place your motherboard in and the rest of the parts.

Five more pages and my novel will be complete.

 
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This is a bit better after clearing the dust out.

https://i.imgur.com/eQp3zus.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/55lcmBt.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ifWihyP.jpg

A good point to make for water cooling guys, less dust.

At least now you know I have built PCs before and I had an odd feeling that you could be thinking "how do I know you guys have ever even built a PC before". Not that anybody would lie about it but it still made me think.

I just watched a YouTube video and this is new to me, Anti Static Gloves https://www.amazon.com/ThxToms-Static-Resistance-Protects-Computer/dp/B01DP6RS0K Not terribly necessary but for the price why not be safe around you ram sticks.

Man this has me really thinking about upgrading, if I upgrade and have to file bankruptcy can I blame it on you.

Just kidding.

 
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I haven't picked out a case just yet, but the original one you suggested before is saved in a different list.

Gonna take a good hit at fixing my car, have to replace the cpu that controls the transmission, so when it's all said and done, yeah, my PC dreams will be on hold for awhile longer lol.

Water cooling systems are cool, but yeah, water next to electronics, no thanks. Definitely not a fan of that idea.

I am leaning toward a mid size case, mostly so I can place it easier than a taller tower. But haven't really looked around just yet on them. I know I really want to establish the guts before the shell to a system.

However, between my car and the desire to get a PC, I'll equally blame you when my bank account drops if I'm become too impatient to wait. So I'll call us even at that point lol

 
Well I hope you get everything going including your car, just be sure to upload a picture of your new PC, not the car unless it a muscle car from the late 60s early 70s then upload both.

 
I wish I had a muscle car lol.

So about graphics cards... Saw a thread where many praised the GTX 1660ti Gaming X. That one sits at a crispy $70 bucks cheaper vs the one I initially added to my wishlist which was the GTX 2060.

Problem is, is this one of the scenarios where the cheaper priced one is actually going to be better?

If I remember right, it was suggested that the 2070 super was a better option.

Ugh, trying to balance power with budget is a pain lol. I just wanna make sure I don't over spend when I don't need to, but spend in the areas I truly should for the long run.

 
1070 or 2070 is going to be better than a 1060 or a 2060 at least a little. I would do a search for benchmark that has the cards you are thinking about. Someone was talking about the RTX Supers being good cards as well. I know it is hard to choose a right video card but from what I have heard I would not go with and AMD card, a lot of guys are having driver issues and at least that narrows the search a bit.

Guru3d has one and they are a good site to check out https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/msi-geforce-gtx-1660-ti-gaming-x-review,1.html not as many adds and garbage as most.

It looks like the GTX 1660ti Gaming X beats the 1070 or holds its own so that is good as that one is in a higher price bracket.

To be honest I would go with a 1070ti or a RTX Super of some variety myself but its up to you. I think if you go for at LEAST a 1060 or 2060 you should be OK for the most part

As far as important parts it is really CPU, Motherboard, Memory and GPU for gamers you could get a crappy sata 500gb magnetic drive and still be OK in gaming. I have tended to over spend on my case with fancy sleeved cables, cable hubs, fan controllers and I used to put UV lights and Cold Cathode lights in my PC and that is not really necessary obviously and I stopped doing that years ago.

The motherboard will have extra features that increase cost so a good reviewed board that may have 6 sata ports might be 300.00 where another boards has 8 sata ports and be 350.00 so features are what drive the motherboard costs. It is necessary to get a good CPU however and you would not want a i3 if you want to game with newer games. RAM is about speed and latency both of which are not critical but amount of ram is. The GPU is all about gaming and computer graphics, this being the difference of the GeForce and the Quadro series as AMD has the Radeon and the FireGL cards. Reviews and benchmarks are the thing to check out differences in hardware, so just keep checking for your parts in any reviews and benchmarks they have for them.

Haven't heard from Guppycur, he must have gotten bored.

 
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Like a true idiot, I accidentally deleted my wishlist with the parts I had saved lol. But, it has given me the opportunity to resume my search for parts lol.

Though I have looked at a few prebuilds, and one does basically have what I almost had in my wishlist.

ABS Mage M - Intel i7-9700 - GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER - 32GB DDR4 - 512GB SSD - 1TB HDD - Gaming Desktop PC

The sad thing is it's only like 40 bucks cheaper than the cost of what I had lol. Though every part has a mail in rebate, so not sure how valid that is, cause the cost of making my own would be cheaper in a sense if all the rebates are indeed valid.

Still, I'll begin adding parts again and see what the final tab will be this time around. I'm not currently in a rush to play A18, not after some of the complaints I've read so far. And I'm only on day 28 of a new rwg map on my PS4, so I'm pretty content right now lol.

 
I came across this discussion on pre-built PCs https://www.overclock.net/forum/18077-prebuilt-pcs/ the adds on these sites in really unnecessary but I guess they need them for server or domain costs or something.

One thing to remember about building a new PC for the first time is, if you buy a PreBuilt system you basically open the box and plug it in. When you buy parts to make a PC, you still have to put the thing together. While it is not too hard, I remember my first build in 2005 when I was so nervous that I might screw up that the nervousness actually made me make a huge mistake, I forgot to put the IO shield in and in the process of pulling it apart I dropped my Geforce 6000 Gt on the floor and thought I broke it. Every build after that I was of course nervous and hoping the thing would turn on (the power switch, reset switch, on/off light and HD light is always hard to do without good vision and good lighting) but each new build it was easier to do and to do it right.

Either way you will get the PC you want, one will be easier and the other will be something you can be proud of.

I am with you on A18, I will probably not play for maybe a year or so. I like A17 and I just got used to that from A16 not too long ago.

You can always check what you had in your wish-list in the post that you put your parts on. It also gives you a chance to experiment again.

 
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Yeah,I know there's going to be very different feeling if I build my own. Just debating on which route to take at times. Mostly just to keep my visible options open, just a quirk I guess of mine lol.

Serious question about motherboards though that I'm still unsure about is the numbers meaning. This is where being ignorant to it all is killing me lol.

As I'm looking over various boards, I'm seeing Intel B360, B365, Z390 and I've got zero clue what that's even suppose to reference. All 3 are for the 300 series that's compatible with the I7 I picked, but kinda lost with which route is the best. I've seen Mobo's for $95 to $300, so the list of options are there, but again, zero clue.

I think I'll still stick with the I7-9700 Coffee lake, I do want to keep the Samsung 970 Evo as it is 1TB SSD, as well as having the 32GB DDR4. If I'm correct, this should be a good start to building a solid, long lasting PC. Just a matter of deciding on the Mobo and GPU after that lol

 
Most of it revolves around different overclocking features, and since I don't OC, I go low to mid-range.

I used to get the 'spensive ones, but ended up never knowing why...

 
I'm beginning to believe the Motherboard is the biggest obstacle yet lol.

I've looked through various boards, ranging from the low end prices to the ridiculous prices. Thankfully in their description Ive learned whether or not it was compatible with the I7 or not. Off the top of my head, the I7 Coffee Lake is considered the 9th Gen I believe.

Is 850w power supply considered low end for you all? Should I go higher just to be safe or for other reasons?

I'm still in debate of a GPU, though Nvidia will probably be my route unless I'm convinced otherwise. Just depends on how much I'm willing to sink into that and what the final cost will.end up being.

Cooling fans. After reviewing the I7 Coffee Lake, apparently it doesn't come with a cooling fan? Figures lol, so I got to ask, how do you know how many cooling fans you need? Do you over do it, or guess?

Anyway, the hunt continues and I Co tinge to appreciate the responses from everyone.

 
I see the chipset is kind of getting to you, I always had a problem with northbridge southbridge differences but it is not that important. Choosing a chipset for your CPU and RAM can just be features, such as 1 or 2 M2 slots, 4 3.0 USB ports compared to 6 3.0 USB ports, better sound features such as 7.1 or 5.1 audio, also how many Sata ports.

I would just look for what you want:

Do you care a lot about onboard sound: check the onboard sound chipset in a review.

You should not need more than 6 Sata 6.0 ports.

you should try and shoot for 2 M2 slots for upgrading later on.

You should not need more than 2 16x PCI express slots and a 1x to 4x PCI Express for later expansion.

You should try and get a max RAM of 64, while its not that important for a long while but it does give you some headroom for later.

I would not bother with overclocking too much as guppycur says it not that important to have great overclock options for a first time build and most motherboards will let you overclock just a little without worrying about anything overclockers do, including voltage and watercooling.

Then google the chipsset and look mainly for reliability over slight performance. You really do not need that $700.00 Asus board. A lot of brands of motherboards look to reliability over performance like Asus with their "tuf" thing they have. So read some reviews on newegg and check out the chipset according to the socket for reliability. Your CPU will gauge performance along with the amount and speed of RAM the motherboard just throws out features catering to ether performance or reliability and also each one adds a little of this or that, like 4 3.0 USB ports where one will 8 Sata ports and so on.

There is a few things to think about,

The MSI MicroATX motherboard has a 8 pin ATX plug and a 6 Pin ATX plug and I checked a lot of power supplies and there is usually an 8 pin and or a 4 + 4 pin cable. So check to see the plugs that are needed.You will get the 20+4 or the 24 pin every motherboard needs but I guess now there is 2 ATX power plugs, do not buy one with a 6 pin plug, it will be hard to find a 6 pin cable on a power supply.

Also try and find a motherboard with good placement for the RAM, this will help you upgrade your ram without removing your heatsink

I hope I did not confuse you or anything, its just something to be aware of.

I used to check this out: https://www.newegg.com/tools/power-supply-calculator/?nm_mc=KNC-GoogleKWLess&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleKWLess-_-Category-_-PSU-_-PowerSupplyCalculator-2019&s_kwcid=AL!5844!3!302382823366!b!!g!!%2Bpower%20%2Bsupply%20%2Bcalculator&&s_kwcid=AL!5844!3!302382823366!b!!g!!%2Bpower%20%2Bsupply%20%2Bcalculator&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0IDtBRC6ARIsAIA5gWuN-spMyr4f5orp6xnXWQTC2wHAvwlGk5llBJjXntc5gI4FjvAmHCEaAkKoEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds just add 100 or so more wattage and you will be safe but as you said it would be better to have a higher wattage power supply than a low wattage one. I know this from experience when I bought a crappy PS and it would not keep my PC running.

From the picture I uploaded I have a massive 1200 watt power supply and while I know its not necessary for the PC I have it was for a better PC I had before and why not be safe than sorry in the power supply pick. Its a bummer when you look at you voltages and you see low dips and it can get to the point of where your PC will shut down.

 
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I'm beginning to believe the Motherboard is the biggest obstacle yet lol.
I've looked through various boards, ranging from the low end prices to the ridiculous prices. Thankfully in their description Ive learned whether or not it was compatible with the I7 or not. Off the top of my head, the I7 Coffee Lake is considered the 9th Gen I believe.

Is 850w power supply considered low end for you all? Should I go higher just to be safe or for other reasons?

I'm still in debate of a GPU, though Nvidia will probably be my route unless I'm convinced otherwise. Just depends on how much I'm willing to sink into that and what the final cost will.end up being.

Cooling fans. After reviewing the I7 Coffee Lake, apparently it doesn't come with a cooling fan? Figures lol, so I got to ask, how do you know how many cooling fans you need? Do you over do it, or guess?

Anyway, the hunt continues and I Co tinge to appreciate the responses from everyone.
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Man, you are really overthinking this. Buying a PC is not rocket science. In reality a more expensive motherboard might give you 1% more speed (or not). And you will never ever notice that 1% while playing. Most features of a more expensive motherboard are for overclocking stuff or blinking LEDs or stuffing 8 hard disks into the PC.

Power supply, I have a 500W supply in mine and it works flawlessly. 850W is for DUAL-CPU configurations, it doesn't hurt, you just spend more money to be able to add a second graphics card later without upgrading the power supply.

GPU: Nvidia is the ♥♥♥♥ty lying company but has the slightly better GPUs if you look at power draw and it has the top range GPUs for too much money. Also nvidia has the advantage that game developers test more on nvidia than amd (because of market share).

If you go for the performance of a 2080, nvidia is your only choice, if you buy below that the difference between AMD and nvidia is mostly irrelevant.

Cooling fans is just about the noise. You want low noise, get a cooling solution that costs you about $40 or more, there are a lot of review sites that compare coolers if you want to go into detail.

 
Man, you are really overthinking this. Buying a PC is not rocket science. In reality a more expensive motherboard might give you 1% more speed (or not). And you will never ever notice that 1% while playing. Most features of a more expensive motherboard are for overclocking stuff or blinking LEDs or stuffing 8 hard disks into the PC.
Power supply, I have a 500W supply in mine and it works flawlessly. 850W is for DUAL-CPU configurations, it doesn't hurt, you just spend more money to be able to add a second graphics card later without upgrading the power supply.

GPU: Nvidia is the ♥♥♥♥ty lying company but has the slightly better GPUs if you look at power draw and it has the top range GPUs for too much money. Also nvidia has the advantage that game developers test more on nvidia than amd (because of market share).

If you go for the performance of a 2080, nvidia is your only choice, if you buy below that the difference between AMD and nvidia is mostly irrelevant.

Cooling fans is just about the noise. You want low noise, get a cooling solution that costs you about $40 or more, there are a lot of review sites that compare coolers if you want to go into detail.
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I have no Idea how, with headphones on, the sound of fans is really important, if you sleep next to you PC like I have for most of my life then I can understand the noise complaint, otherwise with a good set of headphones you will never hear those fans while you are gaming or listening to your MP3 collection. Of course if you use a HTPC type setup, well then the noise could be an issue.

I agree you do not need a overpowered power supply, but your 850watt power supply is a good choice, I think anyway. In PC building, a low powered power supply is a gamble you should not take and 850 will cover you plenty, especially with a single card and not to many peripherals like hard drives and fans and other things that you probably will not need attached to your power supply cables.

I have 2 Sata controllers, 8 80mm fans, a sound card, 8 Sata drives and a GTX 1080 so I would probably want 900-1000 watt power supply for my setup. If you figure the cost difference with a power supply from 600 to 850 watts is about $20.00-$30.00 so you might as well be safe and making this easily being the cheapest costing upgrade to decide on while working on cost effective parts in your PC.

I forgot to mention that you should have a backup and storage drive and do not hold all of your files on 1 M2 drive. Even if you have an external drive this drive will not lose files during an operating system problem. A 2tb SATA 6.0Gb/s drive will be good to hold your important files for backup.

Here is a few drives listed as cheapest for 1-2tb drives https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=100167523%20600003300%204814%20600457692%20600003489%201100858365%20600361769%20600003298%20600003316&Order=PRICE you really do not have to have something with 5 eggs, just look for something about 4 eggs and up and check some reviews and how many reviews.

This is really not meant to add more confusion but I think everyone would agree a separate drive from you OS is good to have.

Well maybe you could hold off on it for a while and just get your PC built and then a couple of months later add a backup drive and of course you could partition your SSD into 2 or more partitions but I still believe a backup drive is important.

 
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Trust me, I know I was over thinking it when I would think about it lol. But, that might have to do with the fact that I'm looking way ahead of time before I buy anything. Too much time on my hands per say lol

It ain't rocket science, that I agree. But I still prefer to use some caution. Plus, I was learning along the way, which results in a more solid conclusion for me lol.

It's still much time before I end up buying anything, so it's all window shopping at this point for me. But when that moment comes, I'll be ready lol

 
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