Dead PC again

bobrpggamer

Survivor
I have debated posting this but the exact same thing happened in 2023 while playing A21. The cause did not make any sense. I just swapped out my GTX 1080 for a 1470TI with a Intel Core i7-9700K and it just killed my system. So I went back to my backup i7 860 PC with the 1080 installed. Got some money and upgraded to a 14700k, 96 GB DDR 6400 and the 4070ti, Everything was cool (Sylen Thunder pleaded with me to go AMD, but I just liked the motherboard I was buying so I stuck with Intel CPU).

So now I go to add a 5080oc to my 14700k system and I get no video at all. tried going back to my 4070k and no luck. No idea what happened, but now I have a close to dead PC again. Once again I need to upgrade my main components. Luckily I received some money from my moms trust, so that is how I have the money to pull this off.

This I what I picked (Sylen thunder and many others will think I am crazy) but here it is.

MSI MEG Z890 UNIFY-X Motherboard

Intel Core Ultra 9 285K - Core Ultra 9 (Series 2)

My G skill 2 x 48 DDR5 6400 for 96GB

MSI MAG A1200PLS PCIE5, Fully Modular Gaming 1200W Power Supply, 80+ Platinum (ATX 3.1 & PCIe 5.1 Ready)

Rosewill THOR NAS - Full Tower Workstation Case

Creative Sound Blaster AE-7 Hi-Res Internal PCIe Sound Card

5 - Yeah five. WD_BLACK SN7100 M.2 2280 2TB PCI-Express 4.0 x4 Nvme SSDs

GIGABYTE Gaming GeForce RTX 5080 16GB GDDR7 PCI Express 5.0 Graphics Card GV-N5080GAMING OC-16GD


I know the Intel Core Ultra 9 285K - Core Ultra 9 (Series 2) is a bit lacking on performance in games but I do a lot of other productivity work as well though.

What do you think?

The only reason I went Intel Core Ultra 9 285K, is because the MSI MEG Z890 UNIFY-X Motherboard is amazing. It has six M.2 PCIe Gen 4 x4, 6 SATA ports and 4 PCI Express slots that share bandwidth with other things. So technically they have 4x PCI Express slots but to use one slot you have to disable a M.2 Drive and so on. I believe it is misrepresentation on the part of MSI to add all these slots and then have to disable some of the M.2 port and vice versa.
 
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@bobrpggamer

So you have a 1080 a 4070ti and a 5080ti in house all at once. Please update your
progress, I am interested in the outcome, and my belated condolences.

So do you plan to use it for AI programming, cross os compatability, redundant
backup?

If you get all of them running at the same time and get a switch, it would be lan tastic.
I did that around 2000 when ADSL was the net speed.
Then just install windows server or just the server service, and make a mini neural
link, or config it to be a Wolfpack.
 
A Bios update might help with the 14700K system for the 5080. Worth a try before you build a new PC.
I could not find the CMOS jumper so I took out the battery for a while and that wiped it. I did get it to start into bios but when looking for windows the display cut out and it did that time and time again. The CPU, Memory, GPU and Storage problem lights come on (mainly the Ram and GPU) since the board since it stopped working. They still come on with bios loading and the lights change some times, which does not tell me much of the problem. The i7 860, 16BGB and GTX1080 PC is so slow it is really annoying (although I am lucky to have it as a backup PC I know). So I ordered the parts a little over a week ago. The parts of the new PC are already here and the thermal paste just arrived yesterday as well. So I am just going to build the new PC and I will tinker around with the 14700k PC later on.
So you have a 1080 a 4070ti and a 5080ti in house all at once. Please update your
progress, I am interested in the outcome, and my belated condolences.

So do you plan to use it for AI programming, cross os compatability, redundant
backup?

If you get all of them running at the same time and get a switch, it would be lan tastic.
I did that around 2000 when ADSL was the net speed.
Then just install windows server or just the server service, and make a mini neural
link, or config it to be a Wolfpack.
The new PC will be doing a lot of video upscaling and probably a lot of disk to disk backup that on my USB 2.0 i7 860 wants to take over a week to do. I started with a backup app and it estimated around 240 hours for 14TB of data, now its down to 139 hours. I figured I cannot do much on this PC so I might as well start backing up disks. This will mean less to transfer when I am (hopefully) running at USB 3.x again.

eventually will just go back to mainly gaming on it. I can not wait to play stalker 2!

As far a an update, the parts are here, but I have a dentist appointment today so I will not start building the PC until tomorrow. I plan to use my test bed on a table first. Install Windows 10, then check out the temps and do some benchmarks. Then put it into the massive server case (I do say massive a lot I guess (I am going to build a massive base!) etc) I will have 7 - 3.5" drives in the case and 1 - 2.5" SSD. I have a PCI express 1 lane SATA controller for the extra 2 drives in the case. This setup is the way I have always really used my PCs. So now with all of the full around glass cases that cater ONLY to looks out there theses days, it is difficult to find a full tower PC case that has the drive bays that I need. Its also hard to find a motherboard with more than 4 SATA ports. The new one has 6, my last one with the 14700K had 8. The thing I do not like about the Rosewill THOR NAS - Full Tower Workstation Case, is there is no window. Its fairly expected to not have a window on a workstation case, its just that it is not really going to be used as just a workstation and I really like to have a window on my PC. I do not think I ever built a PC (even full tower) that did not have a window.

If the new PC boots and I am able to install windows and benchmark It I will post about it, probably Saturday morning I guess.

I will not have the 2 or even 3 PCs on a LAN. I have never had luck with getting LANs to work. I will have the old PC with the i7 860 and the 1080 just as backup when needed and if I get the 14700k with the 4070ti going, that will just be backup PC 2. Although I may just keep the 4070ti out and run of Intel video, that way I can use the 4070ti as backup for the 5080. Intel video is enough to get most things done while trying to troubleshoot my other PCs. I am smart phone iliterate and have the cra*iest phone on the planet that I never use for anything but emergencies. So if I want to check my email or bank or whatever I need an actual PC to do that. My my PC is essensially my life. I do not have a TV in the living I have a TV hooked up to HDMI 1 on my video card and I am typing this on my couch with a gaming keyboard, the mouse is right next to me on the couch cushion.
 
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The CPU, Memory, GPU and Storage problem lights come on (mainly the Ram and GPU) since the board since it stopped working. They still come on with bios loading and the lights change some times, which does not tell me much of the problem.
Whenever I hear of random HW issues, I think of power supply. No idea what you should need, but it's one of the easiest parts to ignore...
 
Whenever I hear of random HW issues, I think of power supply. No idea what you should need, but it's one of the easiest parts to ignore...
I think this as well. I had a Seasonic VERTEX GX-1000, 1000W 80+ Gold, ATX 3.0 power supply running all of this and it has a 12 year warranty, so I tend to not think its this. I have a brand new MSI MPG A850G PCIE5, Fully Modular Compact Gaming 850W ATX 3.0 power supply I found hiding my closet, so when I am ready to start getting this older PC running on my test bench I will try this power supply out. I will also choose a different M.2 boot device as well. The bios did not find both windows manager boot devices that I had, being a dual boot PC, this did not make any sense. The thing is, I brought my PC out to the front room to install the new video card and did absolutely nothing to it at all and plugged it in to my TV and had no display. Same port it was using before in the other room and that worked on my old PC. So it was doomed before I even tried to install the new video card. The two warning light came up over and over again when I tried the new card. Later, I put the older 4070ti in and I got it to boot to BIOS, but I still had the warning light on. So I tried one RAM stick at a time in different slots and when in BIOS it did see my RAM, so it was not the RAM. Then I just got too frustrated with it and ordered the new PC parts.

If I had not got into a little of extra money, I would not have bought the new PC parts, but as I am incredibly impulsive and I figured, well I can afford to buy it, why not. I think they call this ADHD or something.

Besides, If I do get the old 14700k PC going, I will have 2 backup computers when needed. So that cool, I guess.

Thank you guys for the posts. I really appreciate it.

 
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I am smart phone iliterate and have the cra*iest phone on the planet that I never use for anything but emergencies. So if I want to check my email or bank or whatever I need an actual PC to do that. My my PC is essensially my life. I do not have a TV in the living I have a TV hooked up to HDMI 1 on my video card and I am typing this on my couch with a gaming keyboard, the mouse is right next to me on the couch cushion.
Sorry about the kerfuffle, but that is half of what made it worth while for me to
experiment and build pcs starting at 286 with the great big 12" amber monitor
and dos.

So right now you have one working pc and a lot of parts if I read correctly.
The working pc could be used to check the video cards, and clone or ghost the ssds,
or you could get one of the boot images, to test start ups, using a usb but only if you
can get into the bios. Or if you have an external disc R/W also needing bios config.

On the newer one depending on how confident you feel, the 1080 could be used to
test that completed pc, you know it works. For the quote above you are not alone.
I just got into a big "*" with spectrum. The cust svc rep said you don't have to have a
phone, I asked then why did they sell it to me when I said I didn't want one in the first
place. I have talked approx a little less that 2 hours on it in 2 1/2 years. Sales people
suck. This guy came to my house, when I had left spectrum.

Did you check the cmos watch battery, basically remove wipe and replace. Don't touch
the working face with your hand because of your salt. Check you boot order.

Either way good luck. When I figured out last year that there was going to be a price
hike on silicon, I gave up snacks for a year and got a 5070ti, 128gig ram and a 1 tb ssd.
I only need one because I update my storage with 4tb externals. presently 40tb sorted
by subject with tape labeling them.

I hadn't been keeping up I just checked 96TB all approx 80% full. plus my stored cds and dvds
back from the 80s. been stored in cases out of uv light. So I understand.
 
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@4sheetzngeegles:

Here are my PCs so far:

PC 1- Backup PC: the one I am using right now: T5 XE_090922 Socket LGA 1156, i7 860, 16GB of DDR3, GTX 1080

PC 2 - that died for no reason: ASrock Z790 PC Riptide, i7 14700k, 96B DDR5, RTX 4070ti

PC 3 - The new one not put together yet: MSI MEG Z890 UNIFY-X Motherboard, Intel Core Ultra 9 285K, (using the same 96Gb DDR5 (Unless I win the lottery, I am not buying even 64GB of RAM right now for obvious reasons and I really want the 96GB if posible)) Gigabyte Gaming 5080oc (this video card will not fit in the case of the dead PC)

I do not want to do anything to my trusty backup PC, even removing the video card. I had a hard time with this one as I seemed to put it in the back room without fixing the Windows 10 problem. It would not boot to Windows and the ridiculous Windows repair tool just wasted 2 hours. So I installed Windows 10 off a OEM disk in my trusty (UHD Rippable) Bluray drive. Then I found the last Acronis True Image backup I had and recovered that. Took me a while to figure how to do this. But this PC is my only way to safely get to the internet and I want to leave it that way.

So if my new PC works, what I will do is put up the backup PC in the bedroom and then just use the new PC. At some time I may get what I need to put PC 2 on the test bench and screw around with it. I need 2 120mm fans and some cheaper than others (but not garbage) 16GB of DDR5. If I cannot get the RTX4070ti to work, I may just try the Intel graphics I have, since I bought the "k" version of the 14700 just for that reason. Then put this one also in the bedroom for backup PC 2.

Now I need to wait until 2:00AM in the morning to put the new PC together. For some reason this type of thing is best done in the early morning. I am a night owl for certain.

I did clear the CMOS by removing the battery, this managed to get it to boot to BIOS. I could tell it worked because the screen said it did not know what the current time was. Still display problems for now though. Since I have the new PC I will mess around with this one later.

I forgot i have:

A Windows XP small form factor PC I used for retro gaming a long time ago.
A HP small for factor PC with Windows 7 Pro, I bought for some reason I cannot think right now.

If I got my VPN to work on Windows 7 Pro it would be miracle. I do not want to check my email on either of these.

 
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Well after around 8 hours I got the new MSI motherboard to work. This power supply, that power supply back to the other power supply. Nothing happened until I used my older Seasonic power supply. Oh, I am supposed to see a light come on? I guess. Back to the newer MSI power supply. RAM problems. Only one stick will work so I have 1 stick of 48GB DDR5 6400 running at 3200. This makes no sense because it seems that of the 2 banks, only one accepts the one stick. OK, so I found out that the HDMI cable needs to be a later newer version. If I new this I would not have bought all this garbage. So I use a DVI to HDMI and find that it runs at 1024x768 but I do have video. So I use my newest HDMI cable from the other room and I have full HD. Install Windows 10, and check out HW Monitor and Cinebench 2024 (both portable) and my CPU hits 102c. Right, 102c. So I remove the heatsink and clean off the CPU and Heatsink contact with Artic Silver's remove thermal paste and purify the surface things (which are really nice to have), use the newer Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Extreme, reinstall the heatsink and now the CPU is 101c, saved one degree there. Now to the LAN driver that MSI offers on their website. I install the LAN driver and no then no internet. Multiple installs of Windows 10 and I am ready to try Windows 11. The Windows 11 USB stick from the retail boxed home version is not recognized. I screw around a little more doing what I do not even remember and I restart for the 50th time and I have working network and internet. Then I install the drivers from the "first and only one time Windows installer". I forget to pick and choose what I want installed and it starts to Install Norton 360. So I cancel the install and I figure I can restart the installer, but Its a "one time only installer". So I have to reinstall Windows 10 again and I pick and choose what I want installed. Good for now I guess, but I had to purchase 2 new sets of dual channel RAM, which costed a fortune.

First MSI board and I am not impressed. Installing their drivers is more work than a Windows 98 PC. The intel core ultra 9 285k CPU runs hotter than my 14700K if you can believe that. I thought I had a faulty power supply at first because nothing happened when I hit the start switch. I luckily had a power supply checking thing and it seemed to turn on. So do I have a DOA motherboard? I do not know when that one tiny light came on with my old power supply but I was just super lucky to notice that and then I could turn on the PC. I was real close to giving up at that point. I have never had so much trouble building a PC. I was even on a test bench so there was no real cable routing or anything really difficult to do to install the hardware. I was really stoked about how much extra things were on this motherboard, but I wish I would have gone AMD at this point.

Part of the reason the CPU was so hot was due to being a test bench and the ambient temp was around 83f in this room, and the CPU was at 100% for 7 minutes.
 
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